HOW TO EXECUTE GCODE FILES ON THE 3D PRINTER
- Save the Gcode files onto a USB memory stick.
- Insert the USB memory into the USB port on your 3D printer.
- Use the printer’s LCD screen to select and start the Gcode file you want to print.
RECOMMENDED MATERIAL
The best material for printing hull sections is modified PLA, typically labeled by manufacturers as PLA+ or Tough PLA. These variants include additives that enhance the mechanical properties of standard PLA, resulting in a material that is more flexible and significantly more impact-resistant. They also tend to produce smoother surface finishes.
On the downside, this modified PLA has slightly lower resistance to static loads compared to standard PLA. However, it offers much better performance in crash scenarios. If a collision occurs with impact-resistant PLA, damage will usually appear as a crack or fracture line—not a hole.
In short, standard PLA is stiffer and strongest than PLA+, however, PLA+ is smoother and has higher impact resistance. That is why PLA+ is recommended for hull skin and standard PLA for all other parts.
Why Standard PLA Is Not Suitable for Hull Sections?
Standard PLA has low impact resistance. In strong collisions, it can shatter, potentially creating holes in the hull. While it does have a higher Young’s modulus and ultimate strength—meaning it’s stiffer and handles static forces better—its brittle nature makes it a poor choice for external hull parts. That said, it is the most suitable option for internal parts that are not exposed to impacts.
“Can I Use PLA+ for Internal Parts Too?”
Yes, you can. While standard PLA is the most suitable material, PLA+ is also good enough for internal components. The difference you might notice is that some parts, like servo trays, will be more flexible than if printed with standard PLA.
Glass Transition Temperature and Sunlight Exposure
PLA has a relatively low glass transition temperature of 50°C. Above this point, the material begins to soften and deform. This becomes important in the following situations:
- Direct sunlight without ventilation, such as inside a car, next to a sun-facing window at home or outdoors on a windless, sunny day.
Sunlight heats the surface of the material, while wind acts as an efficient cooling mechanism. As long as there’s a breeze, even on hot, sunny days, you can sail safely.
Color choice has a huge impact. Dark colors absorb more heat and are strongly discouraged. Among light colors, white performs best by far. In our own experiments, a white boat stayed 10°C cooler than others printed in light but non-white colors.
- Proximity to heat sources: Be cautious when storing your boat near radiators, heating vents, or any other household heat source that could raise the material’s temperature
Other Materials
- PETG. Based on our tests and community feedback, PETG results in inferior mechanical properties compared to PLA+. We do not recommend it for hulls.
- ASA. While there are some successful ASA builds, it’s a difficult material to print with. It requires an enclosed printer, high temperatures, and precise settings to get strong, clean prints. Unless you have significant experience with ASA and the right equipment, we recommend avoiding it.
PLA Filament Brands
Most major filament brands offer a tough or impact-resistant PLA. In general, any of them should work well for hull printing.
The two most commonly used brands so far by the community are:
- Esun PLA+. Slightly stiffer. Widely used with good results, although we’ve received occasional reports of failure in mild collisions, mostly from users in colder climates.
- Polymaker PolyMax PLA. More flexible and less sensitive to temperature. The downside is that achieving a perfect surface finish can be a bit trickier.
NOZZLE DIAMETER
The thickness of the hull skin varies from 0,9 to 1.2 millimeters. Each section is printed in a different thickness to achieve the stiffer and strongest hull for the less weight possible.
A 0.8 nozzle is required to print the hull sections.
All other parts are designed to be printed with 0.4 nozzle.